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Daltrey Sportcoat Harris Tweed Mashup

Epaulet

Daltrey Sportcoat Harris Tweed Mashup

Price:  $850.00

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We're thrilled to present the Daltrey, our premier half-canvassed sportcoat, in a spectacularly handsome combination of three Harris Tweeds. Together all three tweeds, the navy marl, oatmeal herringbone, and a gray-green basket-weave, form an amazing patchwork. It's a serious dose of trad edge.

Made for Michael Kuhle of Epaulet by Southwick in Massachusetts, the Daltrey imparts classic style, a handsome natural shoulder, quality workmanship, and understated elegance. This "Anglo-American" piece represents our favorite elements of both British and American tailoring.

The Daltrey's basic features include 3-roll-2 styling (where the top button sits as ornament and rolls away for the second button to be fastened), double rear vents, slim notch lapels, flap patch pockets, royal purple full lining, goat suede elbow patches and goat suede undercollar, and Southwick’s superb half-canvassed construction.

Harris Tweed is a thick, gorgeous wool that’s handwoven on the Scottish Isles of the Outer Hebrides. Using vegetable and lichen dyes, they have a deep and complex color pattern that runs throughout the woven pattern. Genuine Harris Tweed is thick, warm, and tough as nails. It yields a solid jacket that gains incredible character with age and can be passed down to the next generation –and most likely the one or two generations after that. Its quality is unmatched, and it pairs wonderfully with our Daltrey shape. The particular Harris Tweed used here is a navy and charcoal herringbone with small flecks of ice and cobalt blue. It's an excellent match for grey and tan trousers, and looks brilliant with denim as well.

"Southwick for Michael Kuhle" is an exclusive capsule collection for Epaulet. Designed by Michael Kuhle, these jackets are a perfect match with our collection and philosophy. Each piece is hand-crafted in the United States in gorgeous European fabrics. The fit corresponds with our in-house shirting line, matching our signature "slim but not skinny" silhouette; and like our other Epaulet pieces, these jackets offer superb quality, classic style, and long-lasting durability at a very fair price. We're confident that you'll be as delighted with these pieces as we are.

Half-Canvassed Construction
Traditionally, men’s suits were constructed with a layer of horsehair canvas underneath a wool fabric shell. The canvas holds the shape of the suit and keeps it from sagging or deforming, serving as a foundation. The canvas is cut to the jacket’s shape, and then the wool is stitched or glued to the canvas. In a half-canvassed jacket, the key areas, i.e. the lapels, shoulders and chest are hand-stitched, which allows them to move and shape around your body. This gives the jacket a proper drape and lapel roll as you walk, sit, and even dance. Or, as Southwick themselves so eloquently put it: “your clothing should look like you, not us.” Proper half-canvassing also insures that your jacket maintains its shape and sharp lapels through repeated wear and cleaning.

Canvassing is a labor intensive and expensive process. Half-canvas construction ensures that all the critical parts of the jacket are solidly built and ensures a proper fit and drape.

More about Harris Tweed
One of the most desirable wool textiles in the world, Harris Tweed begins with pure virgin wools which are sourced from both the Hebrides islands and the Scottish mainland. Its complex color gradations are achieved through precise dying, twisting, and warping of the woolen spun yarns. The actual weaving is done in the individual homes of the registered Harris Tweed weavers. The yarn is hand-fed and woven on a traditional treadle loom and submitted for collection at the village "croft gate." Following this extensive handiwork, the wool is cleaned, finished, and meticulously checked for quality at a central plant. When you purchase a garment made with Harris Tweed, you not only buy a piece of incomparable quality, but you also support a vibrant culture of craftsmanship that's increasingly rare in these times.

Measurements & Sizing
Note: All measurements are shown in inches. "Chest" is measured from one armpit seam to the other. "Sleeves" is measured from the shoulder seam to the end of the cuff. "Shoulder" is measured from one shoulder seam to the other. "Length" is measured from the base of the rear collar to the bottom of the garment.

Sizing on the Caine, Weller, and Daltrey Sportcoats are true to size and generally consistent with our in-house Epaulet shirts. The size chart below illustrates how they match up. This is an approximation, as tailored clothing can't be cut identically to shirting. Generally, most customers who wear an Epaulet medium will get a solid fit in a 38 jacket. However, if your Epaulet shirt fits you very slim, or you have broad shoulders for your build, then we recommend ordering the next size up. The fit in the shoulders is crucial - the chest and body can easily be taken in if need be.

Please note that each jacket has approximately 1 inch of seam allowance in the sleeves that can be let out, and 1 inch of seam allowance in the chest and body. Many customers will find this to have a great fit "off the rack." However, it's common for a proper sportcoat to require a little bit of tailoring to fit exactly right. This is a solid item and you'll find that quality tailoring is worth the investment.




Pictured Fit
Model (6'1", 180lb) wears size 40. This garment fits true to size.

A bit of Southwick History
Mention the name “Southwick” and traditionalists nod in recognition: “authentic American style”, “natural shoulder comfort”, quality and fine fabrics”. Since 1929 Southwick has been dressing discerning customers who appreciate Southwick’s trademark of understated elegance and quality workmanship.

Nicholas and Vito Grieco immigrated to this country from a remote Italian village in the early 1900’s. Hard working and ambitious, they ran a suit-pressing business in Brooklyn, then a successful tailor shop in New York until the outbreak of World War I forced them to close.

Undaunted, they opened a suit business in Massachusetts where they honed their skills as master tailors and experimented with mass production techniques. When that business folded, they worked for another manufacturer until their entrepreneurial zeal propelled them to found Grieco Bros. in Lawrence, Massachusetts in 1929.

Their custom made suits embodied a fundamentally British attitude toward clothing; the natural shoulder philosophy. This was somewhat iconoclastic for the times, as fashion dictated a more exaggerated look; heavy padding at the shoulder, more severe tapering at the waist, deep pleats. While this '20's look becomes trendy from time to time, the natural shoulder style; with its simpler, cleaner lines has become a time-honored classic. Customers turn to Southwick not just because the look is right, but also because the craftsmanship provides enduring value.


Care
To keep your sportcoat looking its best, we recommend the following steps:
•    Regular brushing keeps dust and grit from accumulating in the fabric.
•    A sportcoat should not be worn every day. After wearing, empty the pockets, hang on a wooden hanger, and let air dry.
•    The steam from a shower will help restore the natural moisture of fine woolens and remove wrinkles.
•    If you get caught in the elements, and your garment becomes wet, allow it to dry naturally at room temperature.
•    Do not dry-clean unless it is dirty, and always use a reputable dry-cleaner.


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